17 Sep Jordan & Israel: Exploring Hidden Treasures Between Desert & Sea
Picture this: my first-ever venture into the Middle East. I was a blank slate, a tourist with an open mind and a vague idea that deserts and camels were involved. Landing in Amman late at night, I grabbed my rental car, which, let’s be honest, was more like a tin can with wheels, and attempted to navigate. Now, I’d done my “homework” (read: frantically screenshotting Google Maps), but trying to decipher street signs in Arabic while driving in the dark, in a foreign country? Yeah, that was a comedy sketch waiting to happen. Thankfully, offline Google Maps was my co-pilot, and after a few “scenic detours” (read: getting hopelessly lost), I found my friends. We promptly collapsed into bed, because jet lag is a cruel mistress.
The next day, Amman revealed its quirky charm. We wandered through bustling markets, where the air was thick with the scent of spices and the sound of haggling, and explored lively squares, where locals gathered for tea and conversation. It wasn’t the most glamorous city, but it had a real, authentic vibe. My attempts at haggling for souvenirs were…enthusiastic, if not entirely successful.
A short drive later, we found ourselves in Madaba, home to the incredible Madaba Map. Imagine a giant mosaic on the floor, detailing ancient lands. It was seriously cool. And apparently, every other landmark in this region is a religious site. You could practically trip over history here. We continued south along the King’s Highway, which, despite its regal name, was a long stretch of road. When the driving fatigue kicked in, we made a pit stop at Ma’in Hot Springs Resort and Spa. Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters was pure bliss. I tried to meditate, but mostly just floated like a happy, prune-fingered tourist.
Wadi Musa, the gateway to Petra, was next. We arrived late, grabbed a quick bite, and then prepared for an early start. And I mean EARLY. We were up before the sun, determined to beat the tour bus crowds. Good shoes, water, and snacks were essential, as the temperature went from freezing to scorching in record time.
We hired a local Bedouin guide, which was the best decision ever. He led us along the Al-Khubtha trail, revealing breathtaking views of the Treasury. Exploring the ancient city for five hours was an adventure in itself, with hidden caves and stunning architecture at every turn. Lunch at a restaurant inside the site was a much-needed refuel.
Our next adventure was Wadi Rum. The drive was…interesting, with a constant stream of heavy trucks as our travel companions. Arriving in Shakaria, we hopped onto camels for a ride into the desert. My camel, let’s just say, had a personality. A strong one. Riding a camel is like riding a horse, but with a much wider, more “rustic” saddle. After our camel escapade, we hopped into vintage Toyota Land Cruisers for a ride deep into the desert. The rock formations were incredible, towering over the sandy landscape. Despite looking close, they were deceptively far apart. The cool desert winds were a welcome relief from the scorching sun. Our camp, nestled among the rocks, was a magical place to spend the night.
After a night under the stars, we packed up and headed to Aqaba, a bustling little town on the Red Sea. From the Gulf of Aqaba, you can see four countries: Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, and Israel. We took a dip in the cool waters of Al-Ghandour beach, explored the nearby fort and castle, and wandered through the colorful markets. The waterfront promenade was lively, with plenty of seafood restaurants to choose from.
The next day, we crossed the border into Israel. This was, without a doubt, the most intense border crossing I’ve ever experienced. A taxi dropped us off at the Jordanian side, and we walked along a concrete pathway towards the Israeli side, flanked by armed guards. Once on the Israeli side, we were processed by armed female agents. It was a stark reminder of the cultural differences. Stepping into Eilat was like stepping into a different world. Modern, vibrant, and a complete contrast to the more traditional Jordan. We grabbed another rental car and headed north to Ein Bokek Beach on the Dead Sea.
Floating in the Dead Sea was a surreal experience. The water felt more like slippery gel than actual water. It was incredibly salty, and I floated effortlessly, like a cork. It was a very strange, but very cool sensation.
From the Dead Sea, we continued to Jerusalem. The city was a mix of old and new, and we spent most of our time exploring the Old City, surrounded by its ancient walls. It was a bustling place, with markets, religious sites, and people from all walks of life. I highly recommend taking a walking tour to truly understand the city’s history and complexities. Oh and if you’ve never had shakshouka for breakfast, you must try!!!
To change things up, we headed to Tel Aviv, where we had accommodations right on Gordon Beach. The beach scene was…intense. Everyone was incredibly fit, from the very young to the very old. I felt like a potato in a swimsuit competition. The beach was beautiful, with soft sand and clear water, and the boardwalk was full of restaurants and cafes. We found a great little street with delicious food and enjoyed a relaxing evening by the sea.
Overall, my Middle Eastern adventure was a whirlwind of experiences, from midnight map reading to floating like a cork in the Dead Sea. It was a journey filled with history, culture, and a healthy dose of “wait, where am I?” moments. Yes, camels do spit.
